Fifties fashion from Australian Home Journal advertisements

You may like to do your Vintage Wardrobe Research using original source materials. In Australia, Australian Home Journal magazines from the forties through to the sixties are easily obtainable for under $20 on eBay or in Junk shops. They are a rich source of inspiration for your wardrobe, hairstyles, and make up.

This ad has has it all.

* Divine fabric
The diversity of fifties fabric never fails to surprise me.
This print features what looks to me like a night scene of fireworks over a Chinese village.
The cornflower blue with the pink background really appeals to me.

* Five cute fifties looks:
- two simple buttoned up blouses
- what would have to be a pleated or gathered waist skirt
(but is drawn as a circular skirt)
-and a classic button front skirt for whipping off at the beach
- revealing a pinstriped sun suit
- a shirt using the border print over the hip region,
just like a menswear style!

* Period make up – heavy, unplucked, brows,
winged eyeliner, pink lipstick

*Three hairstyles

* A palm tree – love!

If you can’t get your hands on Australian Home Journal – you probably have a local equivalent in your country.

Source: Australian Home Journal September 1959

Friday Fabric Find – Delft Tile Fabric

Another trip to the dentist with the big boy today so we visited two op shops out of our neighbourhood.  He doesn’t mind visiting an op shop and he found two pairs of All Stars (sneakers) and one pair of Vans – nice!

I got some patterns which I shall show you on another day – but how do you like this?  I think its very Fifties – because of its hand painted look.  The subject matter pictures what I assume are supposed to be Delft Ceramics – which are white and blue – but look lovely in the grey tones.

There is a subtle tile pattern in the teal background – can you see it?  I will have to make it up into a little top and see if my Tiler husband gets the joke!

It was a bit of a bargain 90 cms wide (definitely vintage) 1.5m in length for $6.50!

The fabric is cotton but has a lovely sheen to it – because it’s a sateen weave.  You can feel the difference when you run your fingers over from top to bottom (it’s smoother) and across (more rough).

Still not much sewing going on around here – ok none!  It’s still T-shirt weather in Sydney – the mornings are cooler but the afternoons still in the high twenties – it’s lovely actually.

The big boy had to have an adult tooth removed – it was weakened by Asthma drugs as a baby and was never going to be any good – no matter what we did to it.  He was a little anxious on the chair and started to hyperventilate (just like I did as a kid).  The retail therapy improved his mood – like mother like son!

Hope you get some sewing done this weekend!

Polka Dots and Crosshatch

Just picked up this baby!

Score! It’s a vintage apron probably made from leftover fifties fabric after cutting out a dress.

Three of my favourite things feature, polka dots, cross hatches and yummy shades of green – kelly green and chartreuse.

And all for just $2! Worth walking through the rain for!

Coolangatta Gold

Does anyone remember the movie?  I saw it back in the 80′s and thought all of Australia was like that!  I actually thought the Gold Coast was the name of Sydney’s beaches.  Not that Sydney’s beaches disappoint. So last week I got to go there – isn’t it good-looking!

The view from our hotel room – those distant skyscrapers are in Surfers Paradise 

Coolangatta is the town that hosts “Cooly Rocks On‘ – Formerly “Wintersun” – a Nostalgia Fest for Fifties lovers.

It was a busy few days – I attended my company’s Sales Conference in Coolangatta. We had a couple of days in meetings and some nice dinners out – I love not having to cook!

I also managed a little shopping! Coolangatta has a couple of op shops and a great reproduction vintage clothes shop called “That Shop” – where I bought a nice handbag. You can find “That Shop” at 2/33 McLean Street, Coolangatta

Just next door is the 20th Century Antiques And Collectibles. I spent a long time there – feasting my eyes!!  I may have bought a couple of items there too!

There is another vintage clothing shop just down the road a bit called “Retrosheila”. Alas it was closed when I went by but it looked like they had a lot of 70′s clothes – fun!

Here are a few photos from my phone so please excuse the poor quality.  My early Christmas present – a new camera – is currently stuck in Customs – I can’t wait to get my hands on it!

Tea Cups $35 each at the Antiques Centre

Aussies have a tradition of lovely outdoor furniture from my favourite era – these were beautifully upholstered

Lucite Beauties!

Out and about on Griffith Street

Mosaic Tiles in a Shopfront

“That Shop”

“

Dinner at the Surf Club

One last look – at dusk

It was a real treat for me to have a few days away, Mark did a great job with the kid’s school run and meals – and they loved the extra time with their Dad.  Maybe next year we can all make the festival!

The “I Love You” Apron

I am dedicating this weeks sewing to my husband of thirteen years, Mark.

He is so great.  He is a humble man.  He takes our marriage seriously.  I appreciate how hard-working and responsible he is and how he loves our boys.  That I was able to stay home with them for seven years and that we have a lovely home.  He doesn’t mind my mad op shopping and the mess in the sewing room.  Well, he minds sometimes!

Waiting for my man

He works really hard as a Tiler – making other people’s homes absolutely beautiful.  Those tiles behind me he did them – aren’t they great!?  And he let me have exactly what I wanted – to go with our recycled country-style kitchen that I designed.  I had to wait a long time for him to do them but it was worth the wait!

Last time I made one of these novelty aprons I swore never to make another one!  But how irresistible are the hearts?  And it seemed like the perfect use of this Cherry Print fabric that has a quite a clichéd fifties look to my eyes now, but that I adored when I bought it a couple of years ago.  It was good to use up some of the pink Ric-Rac in my stash and the Rose Print and  that was left over from my “Coming Up Roses” Gypsy Blouse, which is still one of my favourite items of clothing.

Sorry about the heavily airbrushed legs and fake tan.  No, actually  I’m not!  This week I learn how to do that on Pic Monkey (photo editing software) – I might get them out again for you!
Let’s see if he reads this:  “I love you Bubba!”

The “Lighthouse Keepers” Dress

This was the dress I made for the Sew Weekly’s literary challenge.  “The Lighthouse Keepers Lunch”, by Ronda Armitage is my very tenuous inspiration for this challenge.  It’s a cute story – about a guy whose wife makes him an amazing lunch every day while he’s at work in a lighthouse.  It’s very English and there are many titles in the series.  My boys enjoyed this story sent to them by their Nana.

My real inspiration was Mena’s Dark Nauticals Skirt.  My mouth dropped open when I saw her skirt.  It dropped open again when I found this fabric for sale on eBay a few months later.  I was thrilled that the seller accepted my offer so I got it for about $40 + postage.

Hands like Mena!

I have to say, I love this print.  I love a black background, and the New England? fishing village is not somewhere I’ve been – but I would like to go.   The fabric is lovely quality and was so beautiful to sew with.

I spent quite a long time, working out pattern placement to best effect.  The actual dress is very simple.  I really wanted a square neckline and I wanted the skirt to have pleats – like a vintage 50’s dress I bought recently.  I have put the side zip in upside down – a la Stephanie.  So easy to do up that way!  I have an aversion to dresses that are cut too high up under the arm – so I dropped it way down.  Too low – as my bra is showing – darn it.

The terrible hem

The other issue was that I machine sewed the hem up which looked terrible because it became warped.  So I have unpicked it and hand sewed it using Gertie’s method – pins and basting – this method is slow but good!

I went to town buying accessories to go with this dress – thanks Etsy! The Bakelite? Ship Steering Wheel belt buckle, the nautical charm bracelet, two brooches: a sea gull and a yacht. And let’s not forget the hat.

I wore it to my favorite event The Fifties Fair at Rose Seidler House in Wahroonga, in Sydney.  If you are interested I suggest you Google it.  The day features markets and musical performances, fashion parades – it’s a great day out.

More Lighthousey fabric – in brown and orange -skirt for $195 – not impressed!

It wasn’t until I got home and went through my photos that I saw that my comfey flat shoes didn’t look great, and my petticoat has slipped down.  And I should have gone with the seamed stockings I had bought.  And the effect of the cardi (for the slightly chilly morning) was really too much with the hat, (which has a wonderful shape – but the details are really not complimentary at all), add that to the big 50′s plastic shopping basket and the lucite topped handbag I bought on the day my overall look is more crazy bag lady than 50′s style queen!!

It all screams trying too hard I feel.  Anyway, the good news is that I thought I looked fabulous – my shoes were comfortable and I had a brilliant time!  So no regrets!

Thanks to my dear friend Toni for saving the day with the hair do (after my attempt failed!) and for her photos!

The Facts
Fabric:  Vintage Cotton – $60 from eBay
Pattern:  A neckline from here, an idea from there – let’s call it self-drafted

Year:  1950’s inspired
Notions: Zip, interfacing
Time to complete: 10-12 hours – but I enjoyed every minute
First worn: August 2012 to The Fifties Fair
Wear again: Bring on that warm weather, put new elastic in the petticoat
Total Cost: $65

Here is is, hiding at the bottom, fresh to you from Instagram:  The full effect of the Bag Lady.  Shame it was the moment I got to meet the very sweet Michelle from Ravishing Retro – a Sydney Vintage Blogger.  Doesn’t she look faultless.  Actually she was the poster girl for the whole event – Wow!  Do go and take a look at her blog.

The “Baz and Catherine” Flapper Dress

The Facts

Fabric: Cotton Foulard from Spotlight $40

Pattern: 5700 from an unknown company 50 cents

Year: Circa 1980′s

Notions: Art deco glass diamante buttons from the stash.

Time to complete: 4 hours

First worn:  For the photos

Wear Again?:  Saving it for Bali, Indonesia

I wasn’t going to bother taking part in the Sew Weekly’s Gatsby week for a couple of reasons.

Firstly, my idea of Gatsby fashion is skewed more 20′s than the 30′s frocks Mena and her friends wear to the Gatsby Weekend.  I feel I know almost nothing about 1930′s fashion except for bias cut satin evening gowns, and there is no way I am going there!

Secondly, there is nothing less flattering that a drop gathered waist on a woman with heavy hips and thighs.

However,  the Sew Weekly contributors’ efforts for Gatsby Week were so inspiring that I thought I’d have a crack at it!  Also, a few months ago, scenes from The Great Gatsby movie were shot at St Patricks Seminary in Manly  – half an hour away from my house in Sydney – what an opportunity!  With a house full of international guests – I was keen to work in a little photo shoot to a spot of sightseeing with coffee!  The stars aligned, I found cloche hat, and I even managed to get my hair bobbed in time for the photos!

The Seminary can be seen early on in the trailer, with its ivy covered walls, it has undergone a dramatic transformation into a castle in post production!

I was thinking of buying the famous 1920′s One-Hour Flapper Dress but I am too stingy to pay for what is a very simple pattern!  So a few weeks ago I was pleased to find this very ugly-looking 80′s dress.  I thought it would probably work – when you have been patternmaking and sewing for years, you develop the skill of being able to see how the pattern pieces go together and what they will look like.  Beginner sewers – take heart, this takes time.  This patterns wins the prize goes for worst pattern illustration ever.  I saw that there were no shoulder pads to give that exaggerated shoulder line and I knew it wouldn’t sit like that, or do I just have broad shoulders!?  I eliminated the centre front button placket and cut it in one piece.

I extended the sleeves, following the angle they were on, and sewed just to the end of my shoulders.   All the edges and hems were sewn with rolled hems.  I wanted a floaty sleeve, with an open top arm seam.  We are going to Bali next year.  The Balinese are unimpressed by the display of armpits – I hope this dress will be acceptable – light  floaty and no visible underarm! I finished them with a pair of little art deco glass diamante buttons from the stash.

A trick for minimizing the hippage, I recommend is to give it a good press, with the focus on the gathers.  I wanted them to sit flat – rather than billowing out – adding volume where none was welcome.

This fabric was wonderful to sew – it is a very fine twill weave – perhaps a foulard.  I realize that the fabric is more 50′s in feel than any other era- but that is my thing isn’t it!

My dad took the photos for this shoot.  We were up against it.  It was windy again and the camera’s display is broken – so he really couldn’t see a thing – He did pretty well though and was very patient to take 250 photos!!  Mum was great  at directing the photo shoot.  Thanks Mum and Dad!

I am sure you know that Australian Film Maker Baz Luhrmann, Director, and his wife Catherine Martin, Production Designer, are creative collaborators in this movie.  Baz with his amazing vision and kooky musical inspiration and Catherine with her incredible attention to detail – I salute you.

The “Two Become One” Backgammon Skirt

I think this is my favourite thing that I have sewn. Correction, that I have refashioned.  I love it so.

In November of 2011 I first wrote about this Gorman Creation, (known as the “Backgammon Backhand” Skirt) – still swooning from the graphic backgammon pattern with its navy and heady two shades of orange with puce, and the $229 price tag.  Luckily, the skirt was way too short for my 40-year-old legs. I sadly walked away. But I didn’t forget.

Big Sister bosses Little Brother

I visited the Gorman outlet store at Birkinhead Point in February and found the skirt for sale around the $100 mark.

I visited again about mid August and lo and behold, they still had at least three size six skirts priced at $55 – you know what I did don’t you?

Yes, that’s right I bought two to refashion into one.  I spent hours picking them apart, leaving the pleats alone. Tell you what they were the perfect antidote for stomach surgery.  So cheery and happy they made me feel.  That fabric and Mum’s wonderful puddings pulled me through.

Mum and I, in matching Mother-Daughter orange

Then Gertie’s new book arrived and I decided to try out her super technique for a boned waist band – what a cracker   – I do hate it when your stomach rolls push your waist band over. I recommend everyone rushes out and gets some boning – stat! The four pockets were perfect to form the curved waistband. Once I had worked out Gerties sizing (she even responded to my whinge about that on Instagram!!!) I was away.

I faced the waist band with some denim and I thought I would use a piece of that to lengthen the skirt too.  But my sewing partner in crime, Toni, told me I should put on an orange band.  I was dubious to be honest, but I obeyed.  I wanted to use my fave cotton lycra sateen from Spotty, but they had nothing vaguely orange.  I found some corduroy which I nearly  went with that until I found the homespun cotton – something I haven’t sewn with since the 80′s.  It was a nearly perfect colour match and it wasn’t corduroy!  Fantastic. I am so pleased I took Toni’s advice – I love the orange band – what do you think?

I don’t care if my bottom looks big, I don’t care that it’s from last season. I didn’t even care that I was doing twirls outside Ikea before opening time. I feel amazing in this skirt and I am so pleased that the price came down to a level I was comfortable with that I was there to snap it up!

And thanks to my brother Gavin for taking these photos after just arriving from Hong Kong, and for putting up with being dragged around Ikea for hours with Mum and I.

The Facts

Fabric: Two Gorman Skirts, 1 metre of orange homespun cotton
Pattern: Waistband; from Gerties new Book
Year: 2011
Notions: Thread, fusible interfacing, rigilene (plastic) boning
Time to complete: 15 hours
First worn: September 2012 – to the Airport,to Ikea for the photos, to Thai restaurant for lunch in trendy Newtown, then to the school pick up.
Wear again? Try and stop me!

Total Cost: ~$115A

The “Pineapples and Palmtrees” Skirt

I have been making this skirt since the early 90’s.  I think this is the sixth time I have made it

I have made it in chiffon, denim and cottons.  It’s great – I think the A-line shape is not bad on a pear-shaped figure.  It’s comfortable to wear and easy to sew.

I have made it so often I have even traced it on to patternmaking kraft paper (heavy, card weight paper) – this is much easier to handle than tissue patterns for things you make repeatedly.  This is how they do it in the industry.

Although, you think I would have learned that the side zip really ruins the way the side seam sits.  I am so lazy I can’t even be bothered to do any seams that are unnecessary – such as the centre back seam – but seeing it in the photos – I am determined to note this for next time on my pattern.

I love the pineapple print.  Perfect for the Sew Weekly’s Yellow Week – but I think it would look better as a big gathered skirt – but I didn’t feel like spending quite a lot on buying fabric for yet another skirt.

I couldn’t be bothered changing the threads from the permanent black, so I used bias binding for all the seams – it didn’t take long.  I love using bias binding.

Another lesson learned – the straight pattern looks weird on the A-line shape and appears as if it is disappearing into the side seam.

So this photo shoot was tricky.  It was about 4pm – I had read somewhere that the light is good in the morning or right before it goes down.  I found it was incredibly bright and in some shots my skin is as white as my T-shirt in some photos.  So I adjusted the brightness thingy on my Pink camera – that helped.  Although it looks sunny and tropical it was quite cold.  And I really struggled to get a decent shot – it took ages.   Hoping Mark is not so busy next time.
On a positive note – I went and had my hair done at Sterling Hair Salon and Barber Shop in Surry Hills, on the day of the photos.  James is so wonderful – he is a perfectionist and I was really happy with my hair again.  They gave me advice on how to try to keep the style, like – put some rollers in it, use a silk pillowcase, hairnet and a silk scarf – all of which I totally ignored.  I just ran a hairdryer over it and pushed it around a bit – not too bad!

Oh well – some valuable lessons there and the skirt will be fine for the school run on a stinking hot day and perfect for around the house.

The Facts

Fabric: Cotton Pineapple Print – approx. $15/metre

Pattern: Simplicity 9926

Year:  1990

Notions: Zip and cotton bias binding for all the seams

Time to complete: 2 hours

First worn: For the photos

Wear again? Yes on hot days, maybe out of the house

Total Cost: About $20

The “I know it’s silly” Dress

My reality is that I don’t really have anywhere to wear a LBD, or a BBD in my case given that I am a size 16 and just under 5’10 (175cms).

The reality is that I have a tonne of washing to do every week.  My husband is a tiler – he gets absolutely filthy every day.  You can imagine, dust from cutting hundreds of tiles, glue, grout and building site filth come home with him.

We have two washing machines and two clothes lines.  Don’t forget the two boys.  My laundry mountain is only obliterated a couple of time a year!

So I was thinking about how silly it was that I was prancing about my courtyard taking these photos, with my clothesline in the background – mocking me with its “I’ll be seeing you later!”, while wearing my big black 50′s dress with it big petticoat underneath.

But you know what?  After weeks of fulfilling everyone else’s expectations of me – two weeks of running the kids around for the holidays, one day spent at the hospital after Noah had a terrific trampolining accident and put a tooth through his face (he’s all better, now thanks to the plastic surgeons), it felt good to do something for me.

This was a UFO – I think I started it first four years ago – it was my the first attempt using a 50′s pattern   I decided I would use some of the wool that had sat around since my student days – and that yes, it would be a great idea to use some for a toile!  Lookey, lookey – perfect fit – love that!

This has become my favourite dress pattern  and I have made a the skirt many times (omitting the front pleat).

The best thing about this dress IMHO is the “Bosum” piece, it is a Crescent shaped piece which is gathered and gives you a little “more” in that area if you are lacking!! The skirt also covers all my flaws. The little cap sleeves are kind to plump arms. I believe it is the perfect dress for pear shaped women!

To finish it I had to overlock all the seams, insert the zip, and bind the neckline and sleeves.  I did the binding in a Cotton Lycra Sateen – it’s not sitting quite flat – but I can live with it.

Thanks to my lovely friend and sewing buddy, Toni for help with the hem – we decided we should buy one of those chalk puffer hemming devices.

The 1950′s Whimsey I am wearing is a present from my friend Rozie, she bought it for me on my Birthday from Mint Condition for $25 – bit of a bargain. I love the little birds on the veil.
So now I have a black dress on standby for any occasion – not silly at all is it?

The Facts

Fabric: Wool from stash from a million years ago and some Cotton Lycra Sateen $14.95/m

Pattern: McCalls 9400

Year:  1950′s

Notions: Zip

Time to complete: It’s been years!

First worn: For the photos

Wear again: Can’t wait

Total Cost: I’m calling it nothing